Thursday, April 12, 2007

Songkran



Songkran is a Sanskrit word that means 'a move or change'. Traditionally in Thailand it involved the zodiac change to Aries, the end of the dry season and beginning of the monsoon season, and the beginning of a new calendar year. In 1940 (the same year Thailand fought its border-war with French Indochina) the government designateed January 1st as the beginning of the new year like the rest of the world.



There are all sorts of traditions associated with Songkran. It is a time of change, improvement, and renewal. Many people clean their homes or make resolutions to improve their behavior. Thais visit wats to clean the Buddha statues, in some cities the Buddhas are paraded throught the streets so that they can be cleaned by passers-by throwing water. The festival also teaches the younger generation to pay respect to their elders. It is the time of year when most people return home to their parents home.

(Happy Songkran during 2550 - the year of the pig).

In the last two decades the deeper meaning of Songkran has been eclipsed by the more 'fun' aspect of just throwing water on everyone. (Some people also claim that it's become too commercial). In Bangkok people take to streets like Khao San Road with squirt guns and buckets to engage in massive water fights. Up in the provinces people will camp out by the side of the road to douse travelers, or drive around in pickup trucks with barrels of water in the back. I can remember going through Kalasin on a bus once (and I do mean ON TOP of the bus) and having people throw water at us. There are several traffic fatalities each year, but why let that get in the way of a good time?



Thankfully, we are safe from all those shenanigans and tomfoolery up here behind the walls of our colonial city. In here Songkran is a much more civilized affair. This morning I bicycled down to the school to play tennis when a cute little girl with a water cannon approached from the side of the road and politely asked "Can I get you wet?" Without replying, I reported her to a nearby security guard who smashed her gun under his boot.

She cried for a little while, but deep down I know she thought it was a pretty good joke.

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